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The art of honing the toughest and most rugged cut of beef from the bovine into a juicy, tender and angelic delicacy is a quasi religion every bit as worthy as the sun, the moon, the multiple arms of Vishnu or the open field tackle. It can be as easy as you want it to be or seemingly more difficult than conjuring theurgic interveners from the stars.
What I’m aiming to provide here is a rudiment foundation for attaining the tools to snatch the sacred smoke ring from the lords of fire. There are more ways to go about cooking the rancorous slab that we call the brisket than there are unholy deviants that insist on driving five miles-per-hour under the speed limit in the far left lane. None of them are wrong and all of them are paths to failure and each of them individual offenses to someone’s deity. It all depends with whom you speak. The only right way to do it is enduring trial and error and settling on what works best for you. The methods are endless. Listen to anyone who thinks they might have advice and take what you like and discard what you don’t. Keep an open mind and always be willing to change 180 degrees from your comfort zone. So, if you have any suggestions or observations don’t hoard.
Here are the Cliff Notes to what I do to brisket:
1.) I look for a brisket that is at or just fewer than nine pounds.
2.) Slightly trim the fat side to around a half inch.
3.) Apply coarse salt, pepper and dry rub (Adkins Seasoning in my case).
4.) Smoke the brisket for about a third of its weight in hours per pound at 225 degrees.
5.) Remove from the smoker and wrap in foil and cook to an internal temp from 195 to 200.
6.) Remove brisket from foil and place back on smoker for about 30-45 minutes to get char and bark on the outside.
7.) Make sure I go to at least ten when compiling a list.
Lets begin by picking out a good prospect. This guy looks good.

I’m a big fan of buying pre-trimmed flats. Many of the purists will frown upon this, but I don’t have much use for the point unless I plan on doing chopped beef. Long lean slices from the flat is what I like. Wal Mart’s trimmed flats are nice and about the only place I can find flats in the eight to nine pound range. The downside is that you have to go to Wal Mart. This one is pretty much ideal for what I seek.

Here’s what I used. One of these doesn’t belong. This is a test. Pay attention and stay with me.

Here it is as naked as a boy scout in Sizzlechest’s basement.

Season it with your dry rub of choice.

I can’t resist adding a little more pepper. Also, alot of people like to slather their brisket with yellow mustard. It cooks in really well and seems to add an extra bit of char to the outside. I didn’t do it this time simply because I didn’t have any mustard. If you do decide to do this make sure you apply the mustard after you apply the seasoning and rub.
ALERT: Always allow your brisket to set awhile before putting it on the pit. Don’t throw cold beef, of any kind, on a grill or pit.

Getting the fire ready, suckas. If you use an offset smoker remember to keep your coals and wood elevated from the bottom with a grate or whatever you have to rig together. This allows oxygen under the bed and makes it way easier to maintain a steady temperature. I usually start with a bed of charcoal and small pieces of wood to get the fire started. As you can see, I used a big chunk of mesquite to get things going. However, I only use either oak or pecan when actually cooking. Mesquite, contrary to popular belief, is far too robust and abrasive to use on a slow-smoked meat. It also burns too hard. Stick with oak and pecan. Hickory, cherry, apple and a variety of a few others are preferred by some, but I’ve never tried any of those.
Okay, damnit. I decided to try this cabbage recipe that turned out well, but only after some tweeking. If you like cabbage, like me, stick to the traditional crockpot, veggies and saltpork method. Here’s the gist of the recipe:
Hollow out a head of cabbage.
Take your favorite rub and seasonings and roll an entire frickin’ stick of butter in it.
Place the seasoned stick of butter in the hollowed out hole in the cabbage.
Wrap in foil and cook on the pit for about three hours.
It didn’t turn out terrible, but I had to eventually just finish it off in a crockpot considering that it was hard as a rock after about five hours in the pit. Here are the images of this flailing effort:

I don’t remember what this recipe was called. If I had to title it I’d go with “The Slow Death of a Rube Southerner” or “Jeff Madden.”

Ridiculous. Absurd. This has to conjure bad memories for Tamarick Vanover. Just … no.
Time to move on from that haunting episode. The fire is ready.

At some point in the night the smells lured this little guy. Sorry about the quality of the picture. I had to press the lens flush against the window to get a shot. It’s a gray fox.

Here’s what he’d look like if I didn’t suck:

Uh oh. The temp dropped. No big deal. Just ventilate. If your temp fluctuates try to only allow it between the 200 to 250 range. You’ll be fine. Even a total lush is capable of doing this, trust me.

Here we are almost three hours after putting it on the grill. Time to wrap this bastard in foil.

For those that don’t already know, here’s a cool wrap technique I learned from a buddy. Lay down three sheets of foil of the same length.

Slide the brisket on top of the bottom two pieces for extra support in order to prevent any leaks.

Crease the rest of the corners until you have this. Try to leave a little bit of room for the juices to run. Think of it as a foil boat.

If you’re up to pulling an all nighter and you have enough wood, put your wrapped brisket back on the grill and drink yourself into a blathering stupor. I prefer to put it into the oven and cook it overnight to an internal temp of about 195 to 200, drinking myself into a blathering stupor minus the responsibility of chasing a fire.
My total cook time, including the smoke time, is usually about an hour and fifteen minutes per pound. Instead of bridling myself to specific times, I prefer to closely monitor the internal temp and pull it when it’s done. Again, do what works for you.
NOTE: Some people like to pull trimmed flats at an internal temp of about 185. If you get a thin flat it’s probably a good idea. I haven’t had any problems and that might be due to the fact that I try to get the thickest flat that’s close to nine pounds.
The next morning. The smell that’s wafting across the house is a thing of greatness. Let’s stroll around the ranch while this thing cooks.

Nature rejoices as if it knows that something good is about to happen. Even the birds are singing the gospel.

When you pull the brisket cut a corner off the foil before you open it. Drain the juices into a saucepan. I didn’t provide a picture of this simple task, but If it requires a visual aid just do this:

Now remove the foil. Good morning, brisket. If you did everything right, your brisket will be falling apart. Be careful.

At this point my brisket is almost too tender. That might sound like blasphemy to some, but you want it to at least be firm enough to get slices. So, I’ll put the brisket back onto the pit for about another 45 minutes to an hour at heat not exceeding 200 degrees.
Take your sauce (what is now a “mop sauce”) and slather the meat. The sugars from this concoction will provide the burnt and charred exterior that I like.
Close the lid and let it sing.

Let’s take a look at that wretched cabbage debacle. This actually turned out pretty good. As I said, the next time I do this I’ll just cook it in a crockpot. Carving that hole sucked and shoving a stick of butter into it left me dazed and in need of therapy. Overall it’s not worth the effort, but some of the pieces had a slight char to them and there was a hint of smokiness to it. It looks like ass, and smells like two asses, but it tastes great.
Back to the brass tacks. This is how I want it to look. It’s also a little more firm now. This will slice nicely.

VERY IMPORTANT: When you’re done with the brisket let it sit for 45 minutes to an hour. If you instantly start slicing you’ll have a cutting board and counter coverd in broth. You’ll be thinking that you have a nice and juicy brisket, but you’ll be wrong. If you begin slicing right away you’re basically creating a purge for the liquids. If you can manage to leave it alone the juices will render back into the connective tissues of the meat.
Time to unveil this monument.
If you see images of Elvis or the Virgin Mary in one of your slices don’t make a big deal of it. It happens to me all the time.

For me, an ideal slice of brisket will stay together if you pick it up on the end but crumble away at a slight shake of the wrist, especially a limp wrist like Sailor Ripley’s.
The goal is moist and tender slices with a charred, blackened and semi-crisp exterior.

For the people among you that prefer sauce on their brisket, the wrong and unwashed heathens that they are, warm up your sauce and dip a few slices.

This is barbecue, not Top Chef, so don’t fret about presentations.

Any thoughts, particulary suggestions, would be appreciated.
I’m still new to the game and starve for advice on cue. If you’re also a newbie but wanting to learn you can get advice from the community regulars and cue heavyweights like Brisketexan, 12thStudstan and many others from here: shaggybevo
You may also find them at hornfans.
You can find the answer to anything related to barbecue at The Smoke Ring. Check out their forums. Everybody there is kind and eager to help.
My next food post will be how to kick everybody’s ass with pork spareribs.
Parlin Hall said:
May 15th, 2008 at 4:15 am
First-rate erotica for meatatarians.
Solid visuals, Chooky.
Big Satan said:
May 15th, 2008 at 5:41 am
Thanks Chooky. Great read. I’ve never cooked a briskit, not having the proper smoke, and living in an apartment. But it’s high on my list.
doog said:
May 15th, 2008 at 6:36 am
I’m nominating this for best off season blog post of 2008.
jimmyjazz said:
May 15th, 2008 at 7:15 am
Have you tried leaving it on the smoke longer until you get a char BEFORE you go to the oven?
Scipio Tex said:
May 15th, 2008 at 7:24 am
I miss Texas.
TTP, Fred said:
May 15th, 2008 at 7:27 am
Re: the cabbage, here’s what I do:
1. Make a ring out of foil for the cabbage to sit on so it doesn’t roll around in the smoker
2. Place the hollow/cored cabbage on the ring in the smoker
3. Sautee onions in butter and add seasonings, balsamic vinegar, red wine vinegar, soy, or whatever you like
4. Pour it into the hollowed-out core of the cabbage
5. Don’t wrap the cabbage in foil–you’re making it take much longer to cook, and reducing the smokey goodness
Re: brisket, I smoke it with pecan or hickory for about 6 hours, then take it out. No more smoke is going to get past that ring by that point. I finish it in the oven on a rack set into a big commercial rectangle pan I got for $14 at Sam’s Club, letting the juices drip away from the meat (I don’t like boiled brisket) and collect in the pan.
I make a rub with freshly-ground cumin, dried chili peppers, dried onions, dry mustard, garlic powder, coarse salt, pepper. Sometimes I’ll throw on some freshly chopped rosemary from the backyard. I don’t coat it with liquid mustard or any sugary stuff.
Good points on never putting cold meat on the smoker, and always letting the cooked meat rest at least 45 minutes before slicing.
I’m interested in your rib regimen. Over the years, I’ve picked up some tips from the guys at City Market in Luling that have worked out great.
Doperbo said:
May 15th, 2008 at 7:46 am
Outstanding.
The corporate retreat and team building workshop better be at Chooky’s house this year.
Emeril Lagasse said:
May 15th, 2008 at 8:13 am
I recommend the Gray Fox with the Theraflu rub.
(Tastes a little like chicken.)
Sasha_Is_A_Longhorn_Dog said:
May 15th, 2008 at 8:27 am
Now I am going to have to make a 4 hour drive to go to the Salt Lick in the near future. I hate having cravings I can’t immediately satisfy.
Greg Davis Rides the Short(pass) Bus said:
May 15th, 2008 at 9:15 am
Salt Lick is shit.
If you live in Austin and are willing to drive to Salt Lick, there is no justifiable reason beyond BYOB to go to Salt Lick. For an equal drive, Kreuz Market in Lockheart destroys Salt Lick. For a bit more of a drive City Market in Luling makes Salt Lick look like shit lick.
And then there’s the always world changing experience of going to Cooper’s…..but that is saved for special occasions, and when you really feel like being brave. Meat Coma + 1.5 hour drive on 71 = potential for trouble.
Big Satan said:
May 15th, 2008 at 9:29 am
Sasha,
4 Hour Drive? Dallas, or Houston. If in Houston, try here:
Luling City Market
I’m sure it’s the same people as the City Market in Luling.
Chooky said:
May 15th, 2008 at 9:48 am
Thanks, guys.
jimmyjazz —
I haven’t tried that. It seems that whatever char I get from the smoker is usually just soaked and liquified after I remove it from the foil. That’s why I go back to the pit after the oven. However, the rack that TTP Fred mentioned seems like it might be a good remedy for that.
TTP Fred –
Speaking of the rack, does that jeopardize any of the moistness? If not, then I’ll definitely give it a shot. The main reason I go to the foil, other than being ignorantly obedient and doing what I’m told when it comes to brisket, is to seal in the juices, thus the moist brisket. But I know what you mean by “boiled meat.” It does have that taste to it when you take it out of the foil. That’s the other reason I go back to the smoker to finish it. Outside of getting that charred exterior, it also seems to shed a little bit of that Gatorade-in-a-can taste that you get from aluminum.
Thanks for the suggestions on the cabbage. After you mentioned it, the red wine and vinegar is a no brainer.
Also, I’ve been wanting to start making my own rub. What you provided sounds like a perfect start. Thanks.
Scipio –
I’ll trade you.
Doperbo –
You bring the nurses and I’ll bring the drinks. HenryJames will bring Mickey Rourke posters. Sailor Ripley will bring Mickey Mouse posters.
Big Satan –
Buy a cheap smoker and take it to a friend’s house.
Emeril –
Bam.
Sasha –
You being our coveted resident female — every sports site needs one — refrain from giving landmarks in proximity of your residence. Some of these guys are now driving four hours from every possible point from the Salt Lick to find you.
I also advise that you continue to make statements such is this one: “I hate having cravings I can’t immediately satisfy.” The traffic here will triple daily. If you’re really a dude then I’m going to get drunk and shout Billy Squier lyrics at the television while it plays ‘Harley Davidson and the Marlboro Man.’
beemshake said:
May 15th, 2008 at 11:14 am
Big Satan,
The Houston store is definitely NOT the same people:
http://www.houstonpress.com/2005-05-26/dining/barbecue-identity-theft/
Pretty lame.
hitbyatrain said:
May 15th, 2008 at 11:20 am
Well played, sir.
Lisa (Homesick Texan) said:
May 15th, 2008 at 11:20 am
“For the people among you that prefer sauce on their brisket, the wrong and unwashed heathens that they are, warm up your sauce and dip a few slices.” Amen, brother!
Love this–makes me wish I had a ranch or a least a yard with a smoker. It’s hard being stuck here in NYC.
Matt said:
May 15th, 2008 at 11:28 am
You’re f’n hilarious. Loved the tutorial, wish I could get my brisket to turn out that pretty. You can keep the buttered butthole though.
Vasherized said:
May 15th, 2008 at 11:35 am
Fuck I’m hungry now. Nice work.
WhoooTex said:
May 15th, 2008 at 11:50 am
Great article, much fun to read.
Re: Cooper’s and such, I’m partial to Louis Mueller’s in Taylor. Is that so wroooooong?
Big Satan said:
May 15th, 2008 at 12:17 pm
Ooof. Sorry for the bad advice.
TTP, Fred said:
May 15th, 2008 at 2:28 pm
Greg Davis,
Don’t forget about Smitty’s in Lockhart, which is conveniently open on Sundays (Kreuz and City Market are not).
Chooky,
Putting the brisket on a rack has no adverse effect on the moisture inside the brisket, and it allows that heavenly charred meat/rub to stay perfect rather than get all soppy.
Another really good side to try smoking is a rice dish…saute up whatever veggies you like and put them in one of those square metal pans (I use one that Mrs. Fred uses to make brownies), add spices, rice, some broth (or water), then let it sit in the smoker until done. It isn’t rocket science but it sure is good. Surprisingly, you’ll only notice a hint of smoke…it’s not overpowering…just right. There are so many variations you can do with this–as highbrow as cauliflower/curry/coconut/raisin, or as simple as pouring in a can of Rotel.
Then, of course, there’s smoked oysters. Take shucked raw oysters, but them in a metal pan with a little Italian dressing, a small splash of worchestershire, chopped onion, lemon juice, salt and pepper, then let them sit in the smoke until they start to get firm…oh lawd!
NCAAFBALLROX said:
May 15th, 2008 at 2:37 pm
*Whatever works for you, by all means, continue to do so.*
1. I’m a full fat man; no trimmed briskets here. I usually work in the range of “smallest that CostCo has” which is often 12 lbs. or so.
2. My dry rub is similar to what’s described above with the addition of coarse brown sugar (I’d really love to get some dried molasses if possible). Fresh smashed & minced garlic, fresh minced onion, mix of coursely & finely ground pepper, smattering of sea salt, paprika, powdered onion & brown sugar.
3. I am usually on the smoke for 4 to 5 hours & when I pull it off, I’m already charred up to my desired barkiness.
4. After I smoke, I tinfoil wrap, then put a towel around it, & into a clean cooler for about 3 hours – no external heat needed.
5. I never go back on the fire unless for some reason I need to keep it warm (but if I’m @ the house, I might maintain a 125 to 150 degree oven for warming).
6. In your pics of the smoker open, you need to mention that the doors stay closed 99.9% of the time & to even take a peek is adding time by robbing precious heat. I guess anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes of fire adjustment for any door openings. For me, the meat is on & untouched until I wrap it & I’m fastidious about keeping my time between “off the smoke-into the foil-into the cooler” at 4 minutes or less.
That cabbage thing is a waste of my time. Cabbage = coleslaw, which = womenfolk preparations.
Again, if it works for you then that’s the important part.
Gray Fox said:
May 15th, 2008 at 5:03 pm
Chooky rubs any more Theraflu on me he’s gonna get bit–brisket or no brisket.
DrkBgrk said:
May 15th, 2008 at 5:03 pm
I find your choices in wood, cut of cow, and seasoning to be personally offensive, but god damn if that isn’t some pretty fucking brisket you turned out.
Sasha_Is_A_Longhorn_Dog said:
May 15th, 2008 at 5:59 pm
“If you’re really a dude then I’m going to get drunk and shout Billy Squier lyrics at the television while it plays ‘Harley Davidson and the Marlboro Man.”
That would be even more hilarious if I was old enough to care about who Billy Squier is… or was.
Going against Chooky’s advice… I live in the Houston area. I feel pretty safe saying that since it is huge. I’ll get worried if I inadvertently let slip landmarks that are near my apartment. And, Chooky, I knew full well what I was doing when I made the second comment. That alone should prove I’m a woman. :-)
As for the other BBQ places near Austin, Greg, I’ll go if you buy me a gift card.
On a completely different note, I’m pretty positive that one of the regular readers of this blog could vouch for my gender if he knew who I was. But that might lead to awkward situations. One of those, “he never called afterwards” deals. No hard feelings from my end, though.
DrJHorn said:
May 16th, 2008 at 12:12 am
Great read.
Bu I think I have been in Asia too long because I can’t figure out why do you have your IPod plugged in to your smoker. And I have certainly never heard that “224F” tune you are listening to.
A Second Hand Conjecture » Food Porn said:
May 16th, 2008 at 4:40 am
[...] any of you were wondering how BBQ is done down in Texas, check out this Brisket Pictorial that will no doubt leave you craving some good Q. Here’s what we start [...]
HenryJames said:
May 16th, 2008 at 5:54 am
Good stuff even after we had to remove all the pictures of shirtless young boys doing the prep work.
I prefer post oak.
Stuck in MN said:
May 16th, 2008 at 6:16 am
Sasha – I think I was pretty upfront and honest about the whole thing. If I gave you the impression it was more than a fling, then I apologize.
Bates Horn said:
May 16th, 2008 at 6:32 am
Wow. I think I just got a stiffy.
Absolute Pure Gold, Chooky.
coach Callahan said:
May 16th, 2008 at 8:05 am
When you put the brisket in the oven what do you have the temp set at? thank you in advance. smoked buttered butthole must just be a texas thing. Some lonely cowboy must have been caught fucking a buttered cabbage while getting hammered and smoking a brisket and he probably tossed the damn thing on the smoker to try to cover.
WWGDD said:
May 16th, 2008 at 9:00 am
Kreuz is without a doubt the best as it has been for 100+ years. Cooper’s is outstanding as well. Smitty’s is the Hilary Clinton of BBQ. If you’re in Lockhart how could you not go to Kreuz?!?!
TJ Hooshamazoo said:
May 16th, 2008 at 9:06 am
Well-fucking-done, sir.
TTP, Fred said:
May 16th, 2008 at 9:14 am
WWGDD,
Because if you are in Lockhart and it is Sunday, Kreuz ain’t open.
Willy Lump Lump said:
May 16th, 2008 at 10:30 am
Why did the Mueller’s over on Manor Road close?
NCAAFBALLROX said:
May 16th, 2008 at 11:00 am
I’ll take Black’s in Lockhard over Kreuz for two reasons: Better ‘cue & less attitude.
As for Mueller’s on Manor Road, it’s because John M. can make Q better than anyone you will ever meet but can’t keep the trains running on time.
HenryJames said:
May 16th, 2008 at 11:33 am
Coincidentally, his old location is now an Italian restaurant.
Sasha_Is_A_Longhorn_Dog said:
May 16th, 2008 at 2:20 pm
Haha, Stuck. I said I had no hard feelings – I didn’t want anything permanent either. Plus, I need a guy who knows how to kiss. Sloppy = gross.
(In all seriousness, I don’t even know his posting name, FYI.)
I ate at this BBQ place called Hinze’s today. Great BBQ. But it could be that I just haven’t had any really good BBQ (among other things) in a long while. Their blackberry cobbler was ridiculously good, though.
Enough about BBQ. I’m on vacay and going to have fresh fish and enjoy the beach.
DrkBgrk said:
May 17th, 2008 at 1:39 pm
I was at Black’s yesterday. Was good.
fredo said:
May 20th, 2008 at 6:05 am
Can’t wait for the Rib soliloquy.
Bill Parlaman said:
May 21st, 2008 at 9:27 am
It’s like Disney World for carnivores!
Great post…looking forward to more!
Bill Parlaman
http://www.BBQFreaks.com
Darrell Royal said:
May 22nd, 2008 at 9:04 am
I’d hit it.
Cimaronnes said:
June 2nd, 2008 at 6:41 pm
Great post and thanks.
My neighbor and I have been dueling with baby backs for about a year now. There are no losers.
We’ll throw in a brisket – - – and these tips are going to win me some braggin rights.